Octavius the Octopus

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My little guy is turning 3 on Thursday and I wanted to make him a finger puppet of his own.  He really likes Super Mario Brothers but I made his older brother a set of those about four and a half years ago (they can be seen here, if you’re interested).  I had NO idea what I was going to make for him, so I asked for suggestions on Facebook.  That was how the idea for Octavius came about.  My son has already seen Octavius and loves him, so he will be happy to get it on his birthday.

As always, this pattern has not been tested so if you notice any problems with it please let me know either in the comments section or at CrochetBot3000@gmail.com. You can also find me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetbot3000.

Octavius the Octopus

Materials Needed:
Size 7 crochet hook
Size 10 red crochet thread
Small amount of size 10 yellow crochet thread
Black embroidery thread
Yarn needle
Fiberfill

Abbreviations Used:
ch                    chain
st                     stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc dec              single crochet decrease
sc3tog              single crochet 3 together
yo                    yarn over
flo                    front loops only
blo                   back loops only

Special Stitches:
Sc3tog:  (insert hook into next st and draw up a loop) three times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Instructions:
*Do not join at the end of each round.
Use red crochet thread unless otherwise noted.
*ch 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.

Head and body:
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 4:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Round 5:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30 sc)
Round 6:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36 sc)
Round 7:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42 sc)
Rounds 8 – 9:  1 sc in each st around.  (42 sc)
Round 10:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, **2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from ** 2 more times.  (42 sc)
Rounds 11 – 12:  1 sc in each st around.  (42 sc)
Round 13:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, **2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from ** 2 more times.  (42 sc)
Rounds 14 – 15:  1 sc in each st around.  (42 sc)
Round 16:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 27 sts.  (39 sc)
Round 17:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 27 sts.  (36 sc)
Round 18:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30 sc)
Round 19:  working flo, *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36 sc)
Round 20:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42 sc)
Round 21:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48 sc)
Round 22:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (54 sc)
Round 23:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60 sc)
Round 24:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (66 sc)
Round 25:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, repeat from * around (72 sc)
Round 26:  *sc3tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 dc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * 7 more times, finish off, weave in ends.  (72 sts)

Eyes (use yellow and red crochet threads and make 2):
Round 1:   using the yellow crochet thread, make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring, join in blo.  (6 sc)
Round 2:  change to the red crochet thread, working in blo 1 sc in each st around.  (6 sc)
Round 3:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, repeat from * around, finish off, use the black embroidery thread to embroider pupil and sew to front of head.    (3 sc)

Tentacle 1 (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 4 sc in ring (4 sc)
Round 2:  1 sc in each st around.  (4 sc)
Round 3:  2 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Rounds 4 – 8:  1 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Rounds 9 – 10:  sc3tog, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Rounds 11 – 12:  1 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Rounds 13 – 14:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc3tog, sc dec over the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the last st.  (8 sc)
Rounds 15 – 25:  1 sc in each st around.  After round 25, finish off and sew to the octopus’s body.  (8 sc)

Tentacle 2 (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 4 sc in ring (4 sc)
Round 2:  1 sc in each st around.  (4 sc)
Round 3:  2 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Round 4:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc3tog, sc dec over the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the last st.  (8 sc)
Round 5:  2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc3tog, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Round 6:  1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc3tog, skip 1 st.  (8 sc)
Round 7:  sc dec over the first 2 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc3tog.  (8 sc)
Round 8:  1 sc in the next st, sc dec over the next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, skip 2 sts.  (8sc)
Round 9:  sc dec over the first 2 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, skip 1 st.  (8 sc)
Rounds 10 – 20:  sc3tog, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Rounds 21 – 25:  1 sc in each st around.  After round 25, finish off and sew to the octopus’s body.  (8 sc)
 
Tentacle 3 (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 4 sc in ring (4 sc)
Round 2:  1 sc in each st around.  (4 sc)
Round 3:  2 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Rounds 4 – 25:  1 sc in each st around.  After round 25, finish off and sew to the octopus’s body.  (8 sc)

Tentacle 4 (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 4 sc in ring (4 sc)
Round 2:  1 sc in each st around.  (4 sc)
Round 3:  2 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Round 4:  1 sc in each st around.  (8 sc)
Rounds 5 – 6:  sc3tog, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Rounds 7 – 9:  2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts, sc3tog.  (8 sc)
Rounds 10 – 12:  sc3tog, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Rounds 13 – 15:  2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts, sc3tog.  (8 sc)
Rounds 16 – 18:  sc3tog, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts.  (8 sc)
Rounds 19 – 20:  2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts, sc3tog.  (8 sc)
Rounds 21 – 25:  1 sc in each st around.  After round 25, finish off and sew to the octopus’s body.  (8 sc)

Finger Puppet Insert:
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 4:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Rounds 5 – 13:  1 sc in each st around.  (24 sc)
Round 6:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around, finish off, lightly stuff the octopus’s head and sew insert into place. (30 sc)
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

Simple Birthday Crown

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My little guy is turning 3 at the end of the month so I made him a crown to wear.  He put it on, so that his dad could take his picture, and promptly started yelling, “I like it!  I like it!”  We will see if he still likes it in a week when I drag it out for his birthday.  After all, he is at that magical age where he loves something one minute and can’t stand it the next.

As always, this pattern has not been tested so if you notice any problems with it please let me know either in the comments section or at CrochetBot3000@gmail.com. You can also find me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetbot3000.

Simple Birthday Crown

Materials Needed:
Small amount of yellow worsted weight yarn
Yarn needle
H hook

Abbreviations Used:
ch                    chain
st                     stitch
sc                     single crochet
hdc                  half double crochet
dc                    double crochet
tr                      treble (triple) crochet

Special Stitches:
Picot:  ch 3, slip st in the 3rd ch from hook.

*ch 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.

Instructions:
Made to fit a toddler.
Ch 65, being careful not to twist chain, join.
Rounds 1 – 2:  ch 2 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc in each st around, join.  (65 dc)
Round 3:  ch 1, *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 5 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * 4 more times, join.
Round 4:  ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, picot, *1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, picot, repeat from * 3 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, join, finish off, weave in ends.
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

Owlwyn

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When I was a little girl, my Meemaw collected owls.  Her den was covered with owls, most of which had to be from the 1970s.  I loved spending time at Meemaw’s house.  She was a sweet, classy lady who adored all 3 of her grandchildren.  Fast forward a few decades and owls are everywhere again.  When a friend suggested that I make one of my own, I jumped at the chance.  Since it is my daughter Aelwyn’s turn to receive this stuffed animal, she also got to name it.  She immediately came up with the name Owlwyn :)

As always, this pattern has not been tested so if you notice any problems with it please let me know either in the comments section or at CrochetBot3000@gmail.com. You can also find me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetbot3000.

Owlwyn

Materials Needed:
1 skein dark brown worsted weight yarn
Small amount of dark purple worsted weight yarn
Small amount of cream colored worsted weight yarn
Small amount of orange worsted weight yarn
Small amount of black worsted weight yarn
Small amount of yellow worsted weight yarn
G hook
Small amount of cardboard or plastic canvas
Fiberfill
Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:

ch                    chain
st                     stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc dec              single crochet decrease
blo                   back loops only

Instructions:

*Do not join at the end of each round.

Head/ Body (use dark brown worsted weight yarn):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 4:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Round 5:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30 sc)
Round 6:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36 sc)
Round 7:  1 sc in each st around.  (36 sc)
Round 8:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42 sc)
Round 9:  1 sc in each st around.  (42 sc)
Round 10:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48 sc)
Rounds 11:  1 sc in each st around.  (48 sc)
Round 12:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (54 sc)
Round 13:  1 sc in each st around.  (54 sc)
Round 14:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60 sc)
Round 15:  1 sc in each st around.  (60 sc)
Round 16:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (66 sc)
Rounds 17 – 22:  1 sc in each st around.  (66 sc)
Round 23:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (60 sc)
Rounds 24 – 25:  1 sc in each st around.  (60 sc)
Round 26:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (54 sc)
Round 27 – 28:  1 sc in each st around.  (54 sc)
Round 29:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (48 sc)
Round 30 – 31:  1 sc in each st around.  (48 sc)
Round 32:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (42 sc)
Round 33:  working blo*sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (36 sc)
Round 34:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30 sc)
Round 35:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Round 36:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 37:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (12 sc)
Round 38:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, repeat from * around, finish off, sew closed and weave in ends. (6 sc)

Feathers (make 4 cream colored and 2 dark purple):

Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  *(1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat from *2 more times, finish off.  (9 sc and 3 ch-2 spaces.
You will make a triangle of feathers.  Sew 3 cream colored feathers to the bottom of the owl.  Sew 2 dark purple feathers slightly above that (they should overlap the other feathers a little).  Sew 1 cream colored feather above that (it should overlap the purple feathers a little).

Wings (use dark brown worsted weight yarn and make 2):
Ch 8
Row 1:  1 sc in the second ch from hook and in each of the next 6 chs, ch 1, turn.  (7 sc)
Row 2:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (7 sc)
Row 3:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (9 sc)
Row 4:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (9 sc)
Row 5:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (11 sc)
Row 6:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (11 sc)
Row 7:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (13 sc)
Row 8:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (13 sc)
Row 9:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (15 sc)
Rows 10 – 12:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (15 sc)
Row 13:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (13 sc)
Row 14:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (11 sc)
Row 15:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (9 sc)
Row 16:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (7 sc)
Row 17:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (5 sc)
Row 18:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (3 sc)
Row 19:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st,  ch 1, turn.  (2 sc)
Row 20:  sc dec over first 2 sts, finish off.
Join yarn in upper left-hand corner of the wing, work 19 sc along the left side, 3 sc in the tip, and 19 sc along the right side, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew wings to the sides of the owl.

Eye Mask (use dark purple worsted weight yarn and make 2):
Ch 14
Row 1:  (right side) 1 sc in the second ch from hook and in each of the next 12 chs, ch 1, turn.  (13 sc)
Rows 2 – 3:  1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.  (13 sc)
Row 4:  sc dec over the first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (4 sc)
Row 5:   sc dec twice, finish off.  (2 sc)

Right bottom side of mask:
With right side facing, join yarn to far right side of row 3
Row 4:  sc dec over the first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (4 sc)
Row 5:   sc dec twice, finish off.  (2 sc)

Top left:
With right side facing, join yarn in 6th st from left on the foundation chain
Row 1:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (6 sc)
Row 2:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (6 sc)
Row 3:  sc dec twice, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (5 sc)
Row 4:  2 sc in the first st, sc dec twice, finish off.

Top right:
With wrong side facing, join yarn in 6th st from left on the foundation chain
Row 1:  sc dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (6 sc)
Row 2:  2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc dec over the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (6 sc)
Row 3:  sc dec twice, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.  (5 sc)
Row 4:  2 sc in the first st, sc dec twice, finish off, weave in ends.
Trace eye mask on cardboard and cut out.  Place cardboard in between both eye masks.  Join yarn anywhere through the outside of both eye masks and work 50 sc around the outside, finish off and weave in ends.

Eye (use orange worsted weight yarn and make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around, finish off, weave in ends.  (18 sc)

Pupil (use black worsted weight yarn and make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring, finish off, weave in ends.  (6 sc)
Sew pupils to eyes and then sew eyes to eye mask.  Sew eye mask to owl’s face.

Beak (use yellow worsted weight yarn):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 1 sc, *ch 2, 3 sc, repeat from * 2 more times, join, finish off, weave in ends.  The side with the join is the top of the beak.  Sew beak to owl’s face.

*Edited on 3/2/2014 to fix the eye mask instructions.
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

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Valentine Bear

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Usually when I write a pattern, I use a yarn from my stash that has long since lost its label.  I get a few e-mails asking what yarn I have used for a particular pattern and, in most cases, I honestly have no idea.  This time, I am using yarn that I bought recently so I can actually include that information.  If you want to use different yarns to make this bear, the body uses weight category 5 and the heart uses weight category 4.

As always, this pattern has not been tested so if you notice any problems with it please let me know either in the comments section or at CrochetBot3000@gmail.com. You can also find me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetbot3000.

Valentine Bear

Materials Needed:
1 skein of Lion Brand’s Baby’s First (Fairy Tale)
Small amount of Bernat Cottontot (Cheeky)
Small amount of brown worsted weight yarn
I hook
G hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ch                    chain
st                     stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc dec              single crochet decrease
hdc                  half double crochet
dc                    double crochet
rev sc               reverse single crochet

Special Stitches:
rev sc:  (worked from left to right) insert hook into next st to the right, draw up a loop, yo and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Instructions:
*Do not join at the end of each round.  Use Baby’s First Fairy Tale and I hook until you make the heart.
Head:
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 4:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Round 5:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30 sc)
Rounds 6 – 10:  1 sc in each st around.  (30 sc)
Round 11:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Round 12:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 13:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around, stuff head. (12 sc)
Round 14:  sc dec over the next 2 sts st around, finish off.   Using brown worsted weight yarn, embroider eyes. (6 sc)

Nose:
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Rounds 4 – 5:  1 sc in each st around.  At the end of row 5, finish off.  Using brown worsted weight yarn and embroider nose and smile.  Stuff and sew to head.  (18 sc)

Ears (make 2):
Row 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, (1 sc, 2hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) in ring, ch 1
Row 2:  rev sc in each st, finish off, sew ears to head.   (9 rev sc)

Body:
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 4:  *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24 sc)
Rounds 5 – 13:  1 sc in each st around.  (24 sc)
Round 14:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18 sc)
Round 15:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around, stuff body. (12 sc)
Round 16:  sc dec over the next 2 sts st around, finish off, sew head to body. (6 sc)

Arms (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 5 sc in ring (5 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (10 sc)
Rounds 3 – 8:  1 sc in each st around.  Lighty stuff and sew to body.  (10 sc)

Legs (make 2):
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Rounds 3 – 9:  1 sc in each st around.  Lightly stuff and sew to body.  (12 sc)

Heart (use Cottontots Cheeky and G hook):
Bump 1
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  1 sc in each st around, finish off.  (12 sc)

Bump 2
Round 1:   make an adjustable ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6 sc)
Round 2:  2 sc in each st around.  (12 sc)
Round 3:  1 sc in each st around, finish off.  (12 sc)
Round 4:  sc dec over first st of bump 2 and any st of bump 1, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts of bump 1, sc dec over last st of bump 1 and second st of bump 2, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts of bump 2.  (22 sts)
Round 5:  1 sc in each st around.  (22 sc)
Round 6:  *sc dec over the first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * once.  (20 sts)
Round 7:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (16 sc)
Round 12:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (12 sc)
Round 13:  *sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around, stuff heart. (8 sc)
Round 14:  sc dec over the next 2 sts st around, finish off, sew heart to bear’s arms. (4 sc)

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Tri-Bobble Mary Janes

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A few months ago, my mom asked me to knit a sweater and booties for my brother’s new baby.  It has kind of been a nightmare.  Everything that could go wrong, did go wrong.  It took way longer than I anticipated and I finished right as the baby was being born.  I did get a bit of inspiration from this knitting debacle, so I won’t call it a total loss.  The booties I made were knitted in one piece and then sewn together.  I thought it might be fun to design a pair of crochet baby shoes that used that same technique.  I came up with these and I will be including them in the package that is being sent to the new baby.  I am hoping it will make up for the knitted sweater with the really long arms.

As always, this pattern has not been tested so if you notice any problems with it please let me know either in the comments section or at CrochetBot3000@gmail.com. You can also find me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetbot3000.

Tri-Bobble Mary Janes

 

Materials Needed:
1 skein Bernat Cottontot (you won’t use the whole skein)
G hook
Yarn needle
2 – ½ inch buttons
Thread
Sewing needle

Abbreviations Used:
ch                    chain
st                     stitch
sl st                 slip stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc dec              single crochet decrease
hdc                  half double crochet
blo                   back loop only
flo                    front loop only
yo                    yarn over
Gauge:
4 in. = 18 hdc
4 in. = 11 rows of hdc
Special stitches:
Bobble:  yo, draw up a loop in the next st, (yo, draw up a loop in the same st) 4 times, yo and draw yarn through all 11 loops on hook.
Instructions:
 
*ch 1 at the end of a row does not count as a stitch.
 
Newborn:
Right Shoe:
Ch 10
Row 1:  2 hdc in the second ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 2 hdc, ch 1, turn.  (15hdc)
Row 2:  2 hdc in the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc, 3 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (23 hdc)
Row 3:  2 hdc in each of the first 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 3 sts, ch 1, turn.  (33 hdc)
Row 4:  working blo, 1 hdc in each st around, ch 1, turn.
Row 5:  *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 15 times, 1 hdc in blo in the last st, ch 1, turn (33 hdc)
Row 6:  *1 sc in blo in next st, 1 sc in flo in next st, repeat from * 15 times, 1 sc in blo in the last st, ch 1, turn (33 sc)
Row 7:  *1 sc in blo in next st, 1 sc in flo in next st, repeat from * 4 times, # sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc, repeat from # 3 times, ch 1, turn.  (18 sts)
Row 8:  2 sc dec, 1 sc in the next st, bobble, sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (6 sts)
Row 9:  bobble, 1 sc, bobble, sc dec, 1 sc, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 6, ch 1, turn.  (6 sts)
Row 10:  3 sc dec, 1 sl st in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (3 sc)
Row 11:  sl st in each of the next 3 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 6, *1 sc in blo in next st, 1 sc in flo in next st, repeat from * 4 times, finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the left of the seam, join yarn in the 8th st to the left, ch 9, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 5 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto right side of the bootie.
Left Shoe:
Work rows 1 – 7 of the right shoe.
Row 8:  1 sc, bobble, 3 sc dec, 1 sc in the next un worked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (6 sts)
Row 9:  sc dec, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 6, ch 1, turn.  (6 sts)
Row 10:  3 sc dec, 1 sl st in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (3 sc)
Row 11:  sl st in each of the next 3 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 7, *1 sc in blo in next st, 1 sc in flo in next st, repeat from * 4 times, finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the right of the seam, join yarn in the 7th st to the right, ch 9, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 5 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto left side of the bootie.
3 Months:

Right Shoe:
Ch 10
Row 1:  2 hdc in the second ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 2 hdc, ch 1, turn.  (15hdc)
Row 2:  2 hdc in the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc, 3 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (23 hdc)
Row 3:  2 hdc in each of the first 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 3 sts, ch 1, turn.  (33 hdc)
Row 4:  2 hdc in each of the first 4 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 4 sts, ch 1, turn.  (45 hdc)
Row 5:  working blo, 1 hdc in each st around, ch 1, turn.  (45 hdc)
Row 6 – 7:  *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 21 times, 1 hdc in blo in the last st, ch 1, turn (45 hdc)
Row 8:  *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 6 times, # sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc, repeat from # 4 times, sc dec,ch 1, turn.  (25 sts)
Row 9:  3 sc dec, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1, turn.  (8 sts).
Row 10:  1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 2 sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked to in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (7 sts)
Row 11:  3 sc dec, 1 sc, 1 sl st in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1,turn.  (4 sc)
Row 12:  sl st in each of the next 4 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 7, *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 5 times, 1 hdc in blo,  finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the left of the seam, join yarn in the 10th st to the left, ch 12, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 8 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto right side of the bootie.
Left Shoe:
Work rows 1 – 8 of the right shoe.
Row 9:  1 sc, sc dec, bobble, 3 sc dec, 1 sc, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1, turn.  (8 sts)
Row 10:  sc dec, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (7 sts)
Row 11:  3 sc dec, 1 sc, 1 sl st in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1,turn.  (4 sc)
Row 12:  sl st in each of the next 4 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 6, *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 5 times, 1 hdc in blo,  finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the right of the seam, join yarn in the 10th st to the right, ch 12, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 8 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto left side of the bootie.
6 Months:
Right Shoe:
Ch 20
Row 1:  2 hdc in the second ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 chs, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 chs, 2 hdc, ch 1, turn.  (25hdc)
Row 2:  2 hdc in the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc, 3 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.  (33 hdc)
Row 3:  2 hdc in each of the first 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 3 sts, ch 1, turn.  (43 hdc)
Row 4:  2 hdc in each of the first 4 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc, 1 hdc in each of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in each of the last 4 sts, ch 1, turn.  (55 hdc)
Row 5:  working blo, 1 hdc in each st around, ch 1, turn.  (55 hdc)
Row 6 – 7:  *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * to last st, 1 hdc in blo in the last st, ch 1, turn (55 hdc)
Row 8:  *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 7 times, # sc dec over the next 2 sts, 1 sc, repeat from # 6 times, sc dec,ch 1, turn.  (23 sts)
Row 9:  4 sc dec, bobble, 2 sc dec, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1, turn.  (8 sts)
Row 10:  1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (7 sts)
Row 11:  3 sc dec, 1 sc, 1 sc in the next unworked st of row 8, sl st in the next st, ch 1, turn.  (5 sts)
Row 12:  sl st in each of the next 5 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 7, *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 6 times, 1 hdc in blo, finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the left of the seam, join yarn in the 13th st to the left, ch 12, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 8 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto right side of the bootie.
Left Shoe:
Work rows 1 – 8 of the right shoe.
Row 9:  2 sc dec, bobble, 4 sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 8, ch 1, turn.  (8 sts)
Row 10:  sc dec, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 7, ch 1, turn.  (7 sts)
Row 11:  1 sc, 3 sc dec, 1 sc in the next unworked st in row 8, st st in next st, ch 1, turn,  (5 sc)
Row 12:  sl st in each of the next 5 scs, working in the unworked sts of row 7, *1 hdc in blo in next st, 1 hdc in flo in next st, repeat from * 6 times, 1 hdc in blo, finish off, join sole and back seam.
Starting at the first stitch to the right of the seam, join yarn in the 13th st to the right, ch 12, slip st in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 8 chs, finish off, weave in ends.  Sew button onto left side of the bootie.

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